Step-by-step plan for planting trees
The planting period for trees with a root ball is from approximately late October to late April (depending on weather conditions). The exceptions are the Quercus and Salix trees, which can be planted from late November to late April.
Evergreen trees and conifers usually have a slightly longer planting period than deciduous trees. A tree grown in a pot can be planted all year round. For all trees, planting is only possible when it is not freezing.
The following is a step-by-step plan for planting trees:
Soil preparation
- Prepare the soil as described on the soil preparation page. If you follow these steps, you will get off to a good start, which will benefit the growth of the trees. Follow these instructions in order to avoid disappointments – this step is half the battle in your growth success!
Planting hole
- Dig a hole in the ground about 1.5 to 2 times larger than the root ball of the tree, both in width and depth. Loosen the bottom of the hole well to allow water to drain, but also firmly press the soil back in after digging to prevent sinking. Make the final planting hole a little less deep than the height of the root ball (1 to 2 cm), as a tree should not be planted too deep. This takes into account settling in due to the weight of the tree.
- Make the soil sufficiently moist and make sure it contains enough nutrients. Our organic starter fertiliser is perfect for this purpose. Mix it well into the existing soil so that the tree can grow properly. Never plant a tree directly in compost or fertilised garden soil, but always mix these added nutrients well into the existing soil to prevent leaf and root burn.
Planting instructions
- Remove the plastic pot or coconut fibre mat before planting. Some root balls are wrapped in burlap and a wire mesh. This should never be removed before planting. Simply plant the whole root ball, including the burlap sack and mesh. These will naturally decompose in the soil.
- Place the tree in the hole and check that it is not deeper than the edge of the hole. You can tell by the trunk of the tree how deep it stood in the nursery. There will still be some soil on the part that has been under the ground and this will be darker in colour. If the planting hole is too deep, remove the tree from the hole and add a layer of soil. To allow for settling in, make sure the planting hole is slightly less deep than the height of the root ball (1 to 2 cm). Next, sprinkle some water on the root ball, so that the tree is put into the ground with sufficient moisture.
- Next, backfill the hole 1/3 full with a mixture of the removed soil and Heijnen Planting Soil and sprinkle in some more organic starter fertiliser. Make sure the tree is straight and firmly heel in the soil around the root ball.
- *If the tree is planted in a location with paving around it close to the root ball, we recommend using a perforated drainage pipe. This drainage pipe is laid around the root ball of the tree in a circle against the root ball (about 20 cm below the soil surface), with each end about 10-15 cm above the ground. If you then put water in the pipe, the roots will get water all round. It is also possible to lay a perforated drainage hose/pipe around trees without surrounding paving, purely to make watering easier and reduce the risk of drying out.
Placement of tree stakes
- In order to prevent wind movement and the risk of tearing the fibrous roots, it is important to use tree stakes. Use a soil auger to drill two or three holes right next to the root ball (avoiding the drainage pipe if used). For trees with a trunk circumference of up to 14 cm, two stakes are sufficient; for larger trees, three stakes are needed. Take into account the prevailing wind direction and place the tree stakes so that the tree moves back and forth as little as possible. Make sure the tree stakes are at least 1/3 in the ground for adequate strength.
- Attach a strap to each stake using nails and wrap it once around the trunk (per stake). So, depending on the size of the tree, it has two or three stakes and therefore also two or three straps around the trunk. Placing them opposite each other (taking into account the prevailing wind direction) or in a triangular arrangement will prevent wind movement and thus damage to the fibrous roots.
- Now fill ¾ of the planting hole and heel in the soil firmly again. Again, we recommend mixing in Heijnen Planting Soil (if you are using a drainage pipe, make sure that no sand enters the pipe while backfilling the planting hole). Then fill in the rest of the hole and firmly heel in the soil for the last time. Make sure the top of the root ball is also well covered with a layer of soil. You can also create a water reservoir by raising the soil in a circle around the tree to keep water within the root ball area during watering.
Watering
- Next, spread some more Heijnen Planting Soil over the ground and water the tree thoroughly. This will cause the soil to sink a little, allowing the roots to make better contact with the earth. The moisture will allow the trees to take root faster and form fibrous roots quicker. Any fertiliser applied will also immediately release nutrients when it comes in contact with moisture.
A newly planted tree should be helped by watering it during the first year or two (depending on time of year of planting). During uprooting, some of the roots will inevitably be cut off, leaving the tree with fewer roots. Also, the roots do not yet extend beyond the root ball, so the tree has fewer opportunities to draw water and nutrients from the soil. That is why it is important to keep the root ball sufficiently moist to prevent the tree from drying out. Keep the root ball and the soil around it moist, but do not over-water! If the location is constantly soaking wet, the roots will start to rot, resulting in the tree eventually dying. Once the tree is established and the root system is properly developed again, the tree will generally be able to maintain its own water supply.
At first, be careful when using drip hoses. These can partly help with water management, but in the early stages the roots do not yet extend beyond the root ball and a drip hose alone will be insufficient. Because the tree will not yet be rooted by then, (extra) water should be applied on and around the root ball with a nozzle. Only when the tree is fully rooted is a drip hose sufficient and ideal for use during dry periods.
For well-rooted trees, it is advisable to water only in conditions of persistent drought. When watering an established tree, it is better to give a generous amount of water once rather than a small amount every day. Allow the soil to dry out a little afterwards, so that the roots are stimulated to chase water in the soil themselves.
